5 Steps to Get Started Surfing the Right Way

Surfing is one of those trendy sports you’re proud to talk about with your friends… but it’s really easy to make a fool of yourself! Let’s go over a few quick tips that will help you have the best possible experience in the water… without looking like a “kook” (a surfing term that generally refers to an experienced surfer who doesn’t know surfing etiquette, or a beginner who clumsily handles their gear).

Before you get started, remember that anyone who is dedicated, motivated, and knows how to swim can learn to surf.

1. HOW DO YOU CHOOSE A BOARD AND A WETSUIT?

• Choosing the wrong board or wetsuit is the best way to ruin your session.

As a beginner, even though it’s tempting to go for a nice, Instagram-worthy surfboard, that takes experience and won’t help you get the most out of your session or make the most progress… you don’t learn to drive in a Ferrari.

• Board size: Starting with a high-volume foam board is your best bet. A surfboard that’s easy to paddle and stable will help you learn to stand up quickly. Aim for a size between 7’0 and 8’0 (ft), depending on your height, weight, and fitness level.

→ The longer and wider the board, the greater its volume, which makes the board very stable.

→ On the other hand, the shorter and narrower it is, the more maneuverable it is—but the harder it is to surf!

Once you’ve successfully ridden your first few waves and mastered the takeoff, it’s best to switch to a voluminous epoxy board. A mini Malibu is perfect—it makes it easier to ride the wave’s shoulder (the unbroken part of the wave).

• Your wetsuit: The thickness of the wetsuit varies depending on the water temperature.

In the summer, in the south of France (Landes, Basque Coast), the water temperature can range from 16°C to 22°C. We recommend wearing a 3/2 wetsuit and a shorty if you want to get a nice surfer’s tan!

When it comes to wetsuits, there’s nothing better than trying one on and visiting a rental shop or a specialty store.

• DON’T FORGET: Use wax to keep from slipping off your board + Tip: Never leave your leash lying around on the beach; hold it in your hands.

2. HOW DO YOU UNDERSTAND A SURF FORECAST?

• A surfer’s best friend.

The weather is a surfer’s best friend, but also their worst enemy. Start by checking websites like Windguru (one of the best ocean forecast sites) to find out the best conditions for where you are.

The 3 main weather factors for a great surfing session:

• Wave size: As a beginner, this doesn’t really affect you since you’re surfing small, foamy waves, so don’t hesitate to get in the water whenever you can at low tide (high tide is often dangerous) to learn how to take off. The more you practice, the faster you’ll learn, so get out there as often as you can! But as you progress and start catching unbroken, smooth waves, look for smaller conditions (<1M).

• The Wind: Let’s debunk one of the biggest misconceptions in surfing. “Oh, it’s windy—the waves must be good!” We’ve all heard that… IT’S FALSE! Waves are created by the wind, but miles and miles away from the coast. The less wind there is, the glassier (smoother) the water will be!

• Period: Expressed in seconds, this is the measure that determines the average time between each wave. A good analogy is throwing a stone into a lake, like we did as children—we all remember it (maybe you still do). This creates many small, disorganized waves very close together, and as they move away from the source, they become more spaced out and organized, resulting in cleaner waves. The longer the period, the more beautiful and organized the waves will be (assuming there’s no wind, of course).

EVERY SURFING SESSION MAKES YOU A BETTER SURFER, NO MATTER WHAT THE CONDITIONS ARE! FORECASTS AREN’T ALWAYS ACCURATE, SO JUST GO OUT THERE AND HAVE FUN!

3. HOW CAN YOU STAY SAFE WHILE SURFING ?

• Never surf alone. If you’re a beginner, it’s recommended that you never go into the water alone. The ocean is more powerful than we are, and having others around can save your life in difficult situations. And if you do go into the water alone, let the people around you know and tell them when you’ll be back. It could save your life.

• Be aware of the currents: a good understanding of how currents work can make you much safer. A quick way to analyze the current as a beginner: spend some time on the beach (at least 5 minutes) watching the surfers to see if they’re being swept in a particular direction or if they keep paddling in a certain direction to reposition themselves. Example: If surfers are drifting to the right, you should enter the water further to the left so that when you reach the peak (for more experienced surfers), you’ll be in the right position.

4) HOW CAN YOU AVOID BEING HATED BY THE LOCAL SURFERS?

• The rules of priority!

Surfing is a sport with rules designed to prevent accidents, particularly collisions.

• The most basic rule: one person per wave. It’s important to know that the surfer who is already riding the wave has the right of way.
• If someone is already riding the wave, you are not allowed to paddle onto it. If no one is standing on the wave, the person closest to the whitewater or the crest of the wave has the right of way to take the wave.
• Don’t paddle into a wave if someone is in front of you; you might hit them.

Surfing can be a difficult sport to master at first. For your safety and the safety of others, be sure to review these rules before paddling out to catch a wave!

5) HOW CAN YOU IMPROVE VERY QUICKLY AT SURFING?

• TAKE SOME SURFING LESSONS

• With an instructor, you’ll make faster progress in a safe environment. Even if you’re an intermediate or advanced surfer, you can hire a surf guide to take you to the best spots in a region you’re not familiar with.

• Not to mention that, just like skateboarding or snowboarding, surfing is done sideways, with one foot in front of the other. You need to know which foot to put in front of the board. To avoid staying a beginner for too long, take a few hours of surf lessons to figure out your front foot, perfect your fundamentals, and avoid picking up bad habits that are hard to break.

• A quick way to find out which is your lead foot: stand with your feet side by side and ask someone to push you from behind; the foot you use to brace yourself first is usually your lead foot.

Happy surfing,

Marty